THE ROME COLLECTION
After Brutalism inspired AW13, Kristian Steinberg continues to study the way societies expresses themselves through architecture and the way buildings urge us to identify with the agenda they represent. Perhaps therein lies the reason why Romans themselves often fail to see past the Fascist history of the grand exhibition area EUR (Esposizione Universale Roma). Benito Mussolini engaged top architects of the time to embark on a project as grand as any from the Roman past, to show the world what Rome was, is and will become. When Kristian visits the area on his trip to Rome, he is stricken by the early modernism that still looks relevant and by the way it interprets landmark buildings from the antiquities in a way that is at least as innovative and impressive as the original and most importantly doesn’t try to replicate, but rather takes its own bold direction. Palazzo Della Civilità summarises this notion the best and has earned the nickname “The Square Colosseum”.
The AW14 collection sees inspiration from classical sculpture turned into an architectural embrace of the male body. The concepts of smart and casual are irrelevant as Kristian merges sporty and tailored looks and focuses on textures, proportions and the anatomy of the male body.
He introduces materials like cork, and by featuring it alongside digital prints of marble, plays with the idea of organic looking sculpture and organic matter looking rather sculptural. The colour pallet is unusually dark and only really allows one bright shade though the black, grey and sepia – the turquoise. It brings a sense of unruly fun into an otherwise cool and somewhat serious collection. Kristian selects materials with no compromise to quality and designs with the fabrics in the driving seat. AW14 features top Italian wool and jersey as well as luxury merino in all the hand made knitwear.
Photographer: Daniel Fraser
Stylist: Abdul Adama
Hair Stylist: Michael Kontos (London School of Barbering)
Talent: Adam Loft Schulz